Chalky Mount

There’s a “hiking club” here in Barbados. I found it on a tourist website, saw they have walks every Sunday morning and afternoon, and that the next scheduled hike was to the “old Haggart’s Sugar Factory.” As viewing the actual ruins of an old mill is a research priority for me, I thought joining the hikers a good idea.

There was a mixup on the webpage: the sugar mill hike was next Sunday. This day, we climbed Chalky Mount – one of Barbados’ highest peaks. While I don’t fashion myself an expert hiker, I’ve been backpacking enough times to consider myself a veteran. That said, this trip was the HARDEST hike I’ve ever experienced. Wow. Bajans do not mess around.

This week’s hike was in the parish of St. Andrew: the north/east part of the island and aptly named the “Scotland” district because of its similar topography. Walking to the meeting point, I was picked up by some other people headed the same way. (A Canadian and his Bajan wife, and two Spanish people here on a UN mission). Together the five of us arrived a bit late, due to not knowing the area. By the time we parked the main group had already left and was a few hundred meters ahead. The others I just met, who had participated in these hikes before, suggested we run to catch up. “But there’s like 40 people up there – they can’t be moving that fast.” I said. “We’ll catch up soon up soon enough right?” “You don’t know this hike leader,” the Canadian replied. “He moves fast. Last time I thought I was going to fall over before the end.”

So, there were about 40 people in the hike – about ¾ locals. Ages ranged from about 18 to into the 50s. We headed down the highway to a dirt road into the woods, which ended before a steep, foliage-covered slope. Chalky Mount is within sight of the ocean, and rises about 800 feet from sea level. There are many ways to reach the top. With such a large and diverse group, you think we would opt for a windy, switchback approach. Nope. We “scrambled” the main slope, hands and knees, straight up.

The first half of the hike was up a ravine through the jungle. (As usual, click on the pic for a larger image.) Not really a trail per se, we more or less cut cross country: little sunlight, no breeze, and lots of ducking between branches and vines. The vines at least were a help; you used them to hoist your way up. Those of you familiar with steep slopes know how poorly they translate in photos, often appearing flatter than they really are.



Here’s the halfway point, where I stopped for a rest and to snap some pics. That road below is where we started.



More to go! While being out of the trees was a plus, we were scaling the west side of the slope at around 4PM, which meant no breeze and lots of tropical sunlight. (Barbados’ temp is moderated by the tradewinds, which blow from the east at an average of 15mph. In the wind, temps are in the 80s. Out of the breeze things get hot quickly.)


I was already sweating so much that my hair was literally as wet as when you exit the shower. Getting near the top I was tiring of all this, so I decided to put the proverbial head down, and huff to the summit ASAP. Bad Idea, as after a couple minutes my heart started beating through the back of my eyeballs. Full Stop. Breathe. Wait. Now continue, slowly, to the top.

Once over the ridge easterly tradewinds hit you like walking into a meat cooler. “Now that’s the stuff,” I said to my neighbor. At the top we rested for about 20 min or so, and after recovering, I took some more pics.



You’d think such an exercise would be enough for one day. Nope. Next, our guide (a local man with a grey beard, who hiked in duck boots.) took us down the east side (which was considerably easier) and then on for another 2 HOURS or so. We passed through the Chalky Mount village, back down towards the highway, and then through some more wild areas. Here we are later – Chalky Mount can now be seen in the distance (the peak just behind the rightmost palm tree) to give some perspective as to the scale of our sojourn.


By this point the sun was going down, and I was too concerned with keeping one foot in front of the other to take many more pics. But I did get this nice one of a parish cow, as we tromped through some farmer’s pasture.


By end of the hike it was dark. The group I met earlier was nice enough to give me a ride home, as well as telling me lots of nice tips on what tourist things to go see when Rachel comes to visit next week.

Why this club is on a tourist website I don't know. Most of the other foreigners on the hike (who, like me, were under 40) were gasping the entire time. Bajans however took most of it in stride, and some of them were well into middle age. This gets into a more general observation I’ve noted here, which is the truly incredible health and shape of most people on the island (Barbados, and Caribbean islands in general, has a higher percentage of centenarians than most places on earth.) But as this post is already too long, you can just ask me about when I get back.